Idli Obsession: Part II

Alright...so last Sunday I decided to try my hand at making south indian breakfast.  The key element to a south indian breakfast is the Idli.  These are fluffy little cakes made from a fermented rice and lentil batter.  The batter must be left in a warm place for at least 8 hours to ferment.  Once the batter has fermented it is steamed in an Idli mould (see below).  Sounds a bit disgusting I know but they are SO delicious. Check out this great recipe and try for yourself at home...you can generally find Idli moulds at your local indian grocery or, of course, online :-)

Wada is another common south indian breakfast dish.  Wada, below, are fried snacks made from a batter of lentils that are soaked then mixed with various spices in a food processor.  They are usually shaped like little doughnuts...but my batter was a bit soupy so they just ended up as fried globs...

No south indian breakfast, or meal for that matter, would be complete without Sambar (see below). This is essentially a very watery, very fiery lentil and vegetable soup.  Idli and wada are dipped and/or doused in this lovely condiment!

Rasam and Chutney, below, are two more common condiments that are eaten with wada, idli, and dosa (I did NOT attempt dosa...)  Rasam is a spicy sauce best made with buttermilk while chutney is more of a sweet condiment generally made with fresh coconut...yes I had to find, open, and grate fresh coconut for this.  Coconut kholo bhajiwalla!!...my local vegetable man helped me select and open a nice coconut! 

The results?!  Well my food didn't taste anywhere near as good as Cafe Madras :-(  But, I suppose they do have about 70 years more experience than me!  I am not going to give up though...I have convinced a south indian friend to give me a cooking lesson!  I am going to find out all the tips and tricks and will keep everyone posted on my progress...

Kala Ghoda Festival

Saturday we decided to head down to the famous Kala Ghoda art festival.  This three week festival includes visual art, crafts, and street performances.  The name Kala Ghoda means black horse, a reference to the black stone statue of King Edward VII that once dominated the central square of the neighborhood.  After Indian independence the statue was relocated to a nearby zoo but the neighborhood still retains the name Kala Ghoda.  The festival was more than a little crowded but we still managed to have a good time :-) See pics below.

B.E.S.T Day Ever

Recently we also took a trip downtown using the Mumbai B.E.S.T. buses!  Another beautiful example of Mumbai's amazingly efficient suburban transit system.  The red double decker buses are always absolutely packed with people hanging out of windows and doors.  We managed to catch a bus that was not too crowded though some of us didn't manage to get seats! :-) Check out some pics below.

Tiffin Time

Today I packed my first tiffin...or rather my maid / cook packed my first tiffin (how I love her) :-)  For those of you wondering "WHAT is a tiffin?!".... A tiffin, my friends, is an awesome cylindrical indian lunchbox.  The tiffin consists of 4 separate tin containers stacked on one top of the other.  In each separate compartment you will find either rice, dal, curry, and roti (bread).  My tiffin containers are stacked and placed in a tiffin thermos to keep them warm and steamy delicious until lunch at the office.  I personally carry my own tiffin to the office, but the city also has a unique way of delivering tiffins if need be....  The famous ISO 2000 certified Dabbawalas carry over 200,000 lunches from homes in the suburbs to offices throughout the city.  Here is how it works:  The dabbawalla comes to your house around 10am to receive your tiffin after you have left for the office.  Then the tiffin is taken to the local train station via bicycle where it is sorted according to destination before being loaded on the train.  The tiffin travels to the appropriate railway station and is then delivered to your office.  Now here comes the best part....  After you have eaten, the tiffin is collected from your office and the whole process is reversed with the tiffin being delivered to your home in the afternoon.  And all this for a monthly fee of around 350 rupee (7 dollars)! This process is famously efficient are with only 1 mistake made in every 6 million deliveries.  The dabbawalla organization is largely illiterate but manages to run one of the most efficient supply chains in the entire world entirely without computers and using only public transportation (Mumbai local trains) to make deliveries.  Pretty cool!  They also wear fabulous little white hats that I love. :-)

Local Laundry

The Dutch Comes to Visit

Last weekend we had a friend visiting from the Netherlands so we decided to do a proper bit of Mumbai sightseeing on Saturday.  We visited Cafe Mondegar or "Mondy's" as it is affectionately called for a drink and some Tandoori Gobi.  To me it seems like the "Cheers" of Mumbai (that one is for you Jana Adams)! Then we walked down to the Gateway of India and took some pictures with some amazing Indian kids (see below) and stopped in the Taj Palace for a bit of a look around inside.  We walked around Colaba and marveled at the beautiful colonial architecture and stopped in my favorite store Fabindia to purchase a few traditional dupatta and salwar kameez!  We ended the day at the uber-posh Tote on the Turf adjacent the Mahalaxmi Race Course.  All in all, a pretty good day in my favorite city.... :-)  Oh and the first picture may well be my favorite picture ever...that kid is priceless and I have no idea how he made it into the photo without anyone noticing!

Namaskar Mumbai!

Namaskar!  We have finally arrived in the City of Dreams!  It is hot....and humid.  The kind of hot that makes you sweat the instant you step outside.  Charleston, South Carolina in August has nothing on Mumbai.  We are staying in the Ramada Powai.  Powai is a northern suburb of Mumbai about 30 minutes from the chic neighborhood of Bandra.  Our office is located in Powai in the Hiranandani business park and housing development.  We are not working this week and have instead been busy trying to sort out our life here.  First step...get a phone, which we finally succeeded in getting yesterday!  Unfortunately, both of our phones are not yet activated...activation being an unnecessarily complicated, multi-step process which requires a working knowledge of Hindi, which sadly neither of us are fluent in yet.  But we continue to hope and look forward to actually being able to use our phones sometime soon.  We have also been looking at apartments near the office and have found a few that we like in Hiranandani.  I would say the strangest part of apartment hunting is that each place includes a tiny maid's room where your live-in maid can stay.  Bear in mind that this room is not much bigger than a guest bathroom in most American homes and generally also houses toilet facilities as well as a washer and dryer.  We have also been eating the most amazing Indian food since we arrived!  I am amazed at the variety of cuisine outside of what you generally see at Indian restaurants in the US.  I am loving the ghee soaked treats especially....but butter always makes everything better!  Our dinner last night was made especially amazing thanks to the addition of a happy free roaming cow outside the restaurant.  I have included a separate pictures post so everyone can get a visual.  Sorry for the delay in posting but we promise to make it a more regular occurrence!  Bye for now :-)

Mumbiker

Last Sunday I took a fun day trip on the back of my colleague Saurabh's Royal Enfield bike. (Sorry Mom!). It was the first sunny day I had seen here in Mumbai so we were eager to get out and enjoy. We had one piece of business to take care. I had to get my passport photos for the pending FRRO. I checked with the concierge by phone after breakfast and he said he would give me the address of the place, which opened at 10am. Good news! So, when Saurabh arrived and we were ready to leave, I went to the concierge desk but it was a different guy. (Affectionately known as the "B Team") He didn't know the address but knew the name "Navarang Photo" and knew it was across the lake in Hiranandani. This is name of the whole neighborhood surrounding the Maersk office and the general whereabouts of where we are planning to live. With some landmark oriented questions Saurabh pinpointed the store's general location. We eased past the hotel security and out onto the rarely uncrowded roads. It's a quick ride to Hiranandani and before we knew it we were at Powai plaza, a group of shops and vendors near the office. Luckily for me they had erected a Pandal which is the local word for where they keep their Murthis, or Ganesh idols, during the Chaturthi celebrations.  The idols are kept in the Pandal until the end of the festival when they are taken down the the sea and submersed. Until that time you can give offerings so Saurabh encouraged me to take part in this aspect of the culture. There was a small awning and about 20 chairs set up. Some people were sitting there in apparent reverance. There was an idol on a stage in front and you were encouraged to give an odd number as an offering, e.g. Rs 11 instead of 10 or 20. After giving an offering you go and pray and then receive a sweet doughy treat. We slipped our shoes back on and were back on the hunt for the photo shop. Then we saw the big yellow sign KODAK, "Navarang Digital Lab." We stepped into the small 2 level shop, and Saurabh asked about 4cmX4cm passport photos. They quickly said, "FRRO?" Haha they know the drill. I went upstairs and sat on the bench. Saurabh joined me (I am sure just for fun) and said, "hey Matt, you may want to comb your hair!" I looked in the mirror there hanging on the wall and my hair was standing straight up from the motorcycle ride. Saurabh jokingly said, "you can use that comb," pointing to a red comb laying on the dirty floor. The picture was made with pro photog flash and all, and we were told 1hr. Saurabh paids for my pics even after my protest. Rs. 100. Or about $1.25 for 6 photos. No telling how much they would've been if he wasn't there. He told the guy we were going to see the new Hindi movie "Dabaang" and the shopkeeper strongly endorsed it. There we were off to the mall that is only a year or 2 old, to the "Big Cinema" via Ghatkapor (the neighborhood we drive through). Beautiful day and fun ride. We parked in the motorcyle section of the parking deck, and rode a crowded elevator up to 3rd floor of the mall. There we went through a metal detector which it seems to be very standard procedure everywhere. Obviously I am cool with that. Ordering the ticket is interesting because here, at least at this cinema, the seats are assigned. So you pick your seats when you purchase just like you would if you got nice seats for a concert. We decided on B 18 and 19. 2nd from the back on the left a little. We had some time to kill before the show so we went to the food court. We got an order of Mutton Kebab. The chutney they had was not spicy enough we asked for spicier. We went back in, and they delivered our "combo". Which consists of 2 small (very small) pepsis 2 medium popcorns, and 2 samosas. Rs180. The movie theatre is very modern, clean, with comfortable reclining chairs. There were a few previews, and then we all had to stand for the playing of the National anthem. The movie itself was really cool. Probably the perfect Hindi movie for me since I cant understand a word. This movie stars Salman Khan, who doesnt look a day over 30, but apparently is a trainer in his 50's. It is laden with action scenes, comedy, and of course chorographed dances. Good times.

--Turned Back--aka Got Registration?

The first week in Mumbai flew by. Posh daily breakfasts and plenty of work to do in a new office hustled each day through. My schedule had me flying out at 11:10pm IST on Friday, the 10th of September. I went into the office at the normal time which is 5:00pm IST which correlates to 7:30am at home. My friend and colleague Saurabh had especially arranged to drop me at the airport that evening because we had some concerns over the space in the hatch-back Tata Indica car our regular driver uses. After writing a few mails and saying brief goodbyes we hopped in his car about 7:15pm. 12 miles=One and a half hours...Traffic was a little more than usual because it was the first day of Ganesh Chaturthi. After the requisite bumps and horn blow outs we arrived to find that there is no Gate 2c. We had gone past gate B where Continental flys out. So, with the help of the traffic guard and his trusty whistle we walked back to Gate B down the middle of the road. I had a luggage cart and my colleagues were right behind making sure I got into the right line. I only almost tripped the traffic guy with the cart once...woops. We got to gate B and I entered into a line that is about 50 people long where military guards check passport and tickets to grant entry. I said my hurried goodbyes to colleagues and turned to enter the line. Constant vigilance is needed to move along in any line here. The line actually moved quickly and before I knew it I was in the airport. Once I entered I found an airline rep and he pointed me to the longer line, Continental check-in, which was actually very close to the entry point of gate B. I answered a few questions from the staff, attach info to bags, and check in. Now all I had to do now was go through immigration and security...so far so good. I even upgraded my seat for more legroom!! Happy day. I waited in line for immigration for a while it was now getting close to 10pm. It was my turn I handed the guy my passport and boarding ticket....any moment now I should get it back and go through security....WRONG. "Where is your registration? Excuse me? Your registration? I dont...Come with me." We went back to head guys office. "No registration" amongst other inaudible Marathi mumblings, I was told to sit down. "Your flight will be cancelled", the middle aged balding agent coldly declared. I let out an audible gasp...I got an FRRO registration brochure and was escorted back to the Continental desk. I was told my bags are being offloaded. "Wait here 10 minutes." I waited for 30 at least. I had no phone, no local phone numbers. My other colleague was flying out to Frankfurt later that evening, my wheels turned, maybe I could wait for him and use his phone to get in touch. NOPE. Once I got my bags I was escorted out of the airport back in front of Gate B where I had entered some hours before. Like a salmon upstream I fought the crush of people pushing their way into the airport, and make it to a phone bank. The phone stand was monitored by a kid probably 16 at most. "USD? Do you take USD?" (I only had a $5 bill because why would I need ruppees I'm leaving). He noded and I dialed my colleague who was still in the office. He said, "can I call you back in 15...can he? NO. "Ok I will call you back in 15." I hung up. Kid said, "thats 200 rupees". All I had was usd. Blank stare. His boss who was apparently hovering close by sensed a problem and came over. I explained my issue, and he said, "just make your other call in 15 minutes and give him the $5 and everything will be fine." Thanks to that man. We chi-chated for a second and once he heard my story he said, "that is a big problem, because of the holiday earliest you could leave is Monday FRRO is closed on Saturday". The kid said, "Don't forget me", and I sat down on the ground right next to the stand and tried to keep it together. I got out my Hindustani Times and started reading. What a sight I must have been. After 15 I gave my colleague a call. The cavalry was on the way to come pick me up. Phew. Stress levels return from freakmode down to heightened. So there I waiedt for another hour on the curb and finally my buddy showed up and exclaimed, "Matt". I hopped in and that is that story. Epilogue to that story is we got back to the hotel where I had been rebooked. We joked with the hotel reception clerk, "Do we get a Welcome Back basket?", blank stare. I got to my new room and hit the minibar right away. This room is in much worse shape. The shade in between the bathroom falls down etc. But to top it all off I ordered a chicken dish at the 5 star restaurant and after I ate about 3 pieces I cut into one...Raw chicken. As the dude from Quantum Leap said, "Oh brother."

Guy in Mumbai

Southern view across Lake Powai from the 25th floor of Renaissance. The Renaissance is about a 15 minute ride away from the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport. We had an interesting ride in. I rode shotgun on the left side of the car something I had never done. Red light,no problem you just go through slowly flash your lights, honk your horn, and wait your turn to slip through. Numerous dogs were encountered along the way. They knew enough to avoid the car. We did see a donkey just hanging out all by itself in the middle of the road. Looked like Juan Valdez had gone in to grab a cup of joe. Mind you its 3am in the morning at this point. We did pass through security at the hotel entrance, which im all for. I assume the guy had a bomb sniffing dog, who when he opens your door says "siccum" ! Ha im sure thats just his prompt to smell but i was not wanting to be "sic'd". I changed $60 USD in Frankfurt for some rupees. I should have waited until Mumbai b/c they had to first change then into Euros so I only got 32 INR /USD. (instead of about 47) When she changed she only had 500 rupee notes. Ha! I might as well had a thousand dollar bill as far as tips are concerned. The typical tip for someone carrying your bags is something like 12-18 Rupees. Well my guy got a 100 note bc thats the smallest amount i could get from the hotel. All in all no big deal since that is rougly $2.12. I tried to stay awake until breakfast buffet at 630 but no dice. I awoke at 9 to housekeeping. They have a bell they ring. I had no idea where i was. I finally got some breakfast around 945 after chatting with my colleague. Now as I post this it is 942pm here and I am trying to stay up until 630am for breakfast then go to bed after that. Then wake up around 3pm to make it into the office around 500pm. (730amEST). I need to boil up some coffee so I'm off.