Last Days In Charlotte...

 

Matt is finally due back from his Mumbai pre-trip tomorrow (seven days late thanks to the FRRO)!  In his absence I have been taking time out to frequent some of my favorite Charlotte establishments.  Namely, The Thirsty Beaver and The Penguin.  The Penguin serves hands down THE BEST fried pickles in the South.  I know this is a pretty contentious claim but I stand by it 100%!  The Thirsty Beaver...well first of all it is called the Thirsty Beaver....  They also show Hee-Haw re-runs behind the bar and they make a mean Bloody Mary...Heaven!  Sadly, I am pretty sure there won't be Hee-Haw in India.

Mumbiker

Last Sunday I took a fun day trip on the back of my colleague Saurabh's Royal Enfield bike. (Sorry Mom!). It was the first sunny day I had seen here in Mumbai so we were eager to get out and enjoy. We had one piece of business to take care. I had to get my passport photos for the pending FRRO. I checked with the concierge by phone after breakfast and he said he would give me the address of the place, which opened at 10am. Good news! So, when Saurabh arrived and we were ready to leave, I went to the concierge desk but it was a different guy. (Affectionately known as the "B Team") He didn't know the address but knew the name "Navarang Photo" and knew it was across the lake in Hiranandani. This is name of the whole neighborhood surrounding the Maersk office and the general whereabouts of where we are planning to live. With some landmark oriented questions Saurabh pinpointed the store's general location. We eased past the hotel security and out onto the rarely uncrowded roads. It's a quick ride to Hiranandani and before we knew it we were at Powai plaza, a group of shops and vendors near the office. Luckily for me they had erected a Pandal which is the local word for where they keep their Murthis, or Ganesh idols, during the Chaturthi celebrations.  The idols are kept in the Pandal until the end of the festival when they are taken down the the sea and submersed. Until that time you can give offerings so Saurabh encouraged me to take part in this aspect of the culture. There was a small awning and about 20 chairs set up. Some people were sitting there in apparent reverance. There was an idol on a stage in front and you were encouraged to give an odd number as an offering, e.g. Rs 11 instead of 10 or 20. After giving an offering you go and pray and then receive a sweet doughy treat. We slipped our shoes back on and were back on the hunt for the photo shop. Then we saw the big yellow sign KODAK, "Navarang Digital Lab." We stepped into the small 2 level shop, and Saurabh asked about 4cmX4cm passport photos. They quickly said, "FRRO?" Haha they know the drill. I went upstairs and sat on the bench. Saurabh joined me (I am sure just for fun) and said, "hey Matt, you may want to comb your hair!" I looked in the mirror there hanging on the wall and my hair was standing straight up from the motorcycle ride. Saurabh jokingly said, "you can use that comb," pointing to a red comb laying on the dirty floor. The picture was made with pro photog flash and all, and we were told 1hr. Saurabh paids for my pics even after my protest. Rs. 100. Or about $1.25 for 6 photos. No telling how much they would've been if he wasn't there. He told the guy we were going to see the new Hindi movie "Dabaang" and the shopkeeper strongly endorsed it. There we were off to the mall that is only a year or 2 old, to the "Big Cinema" via Ghatkapor (the neighborhood we drive through). Beautiful day and fun ride. We parked in the motorcyle section of the parking deck, and rode a crowded elevator up to 3rd floor of the mall. There we went through a metal detector which it seems to be very standard procedure everywhere. Obviously I am cool with that. Ordering the ticket is interesting because here, at least at this cinema, the seats are assigned. So you pick your seats when you purchase just like you would if you got nice seats for a concert. We decided on B 18 and 19. 2nd from the back on the left a little. We had some time to kill before the show so we went to the food court. We got an order of Mutton Kebab. The chutney they had was not spicy enough we asked for spicier. We went back in, and they delivered our "combo". Which consists of 2 small (very small) pepsis 2 medium popcorns, and 2 samosas. Rs180. The movie theatre is very modern, clean, with comfortable reclining chairs. There were a few previews, and then we all had to stand for the playing of the National anthem. The movie itself was really cool. Probably the perfect Hindi movie for me since I cant understand a word. This movie stars Salman Khan, who doesnt look a day over 30, but apparently is a trainer in his 50's. It is laden with action scenes, comedy, and of course chorographed dances. Good times.

--Turned Back--aka Got Registration?

The first week in Mumbai flew by. Posh daily breakfasts and plenty of work to do in a new office hustled each day through. My schedule had me flying out at 11:10pm IST on Friday, the 10th of September. I went into the office at the normal time which is 5:00pm IST which correlates to 7:30am at home. My friend and colleague Saurabh had especially arranged to drop me at the airport that evening because we had some concerns over the space in the hatch-back Tata Indica car our regular driver uses. After writing a few mails and saying brief goodbyes we hopped in his car about 7:15pm. 12 miles=One and a half hours...Traffic was a little more than usual because it was the first day of Ganesh Chaturthi. After the requisite bumps and horn blow outs we arrived to find that there is no Gate 2c. We had gone past gate B where Continental flys out. So, with the help of the traffic guard and his trusty whistle we walked back to Gate B down the middle of the road. I had a luggage cart and my colleagues were right behind making sure I got into the right line. I only almost tripped the traffic guy with the cart once...woops. We got to gate B and I entered into a line that is about 50 people long where military guards check passport and tickets to grant entry. I said my hurried goodbyes to colleagues and turned to enter the line. Constant vigilance is needed to move along in any line here. The line actually moved quickly and before I knew it I was in the airport. Once I entered I found an airline rep and he pointed me to the longer line, Continental check-in, which was actually very close to the entry point of gate B. I answered a few questions from the staff, attach info to bags, and check in. Now all I had to do now was go through immigration and security...so far so good. I even upgraded my seat for more legroom!! Happy day. I waited in line for immigration for a while it was now getting close to 10pm. It was my turn I handed the guy my passport and boarding ticket....any moment now I should get it back and go through security....WRONG. "Where is your registration? Excuse me? Your registration? I dont...Come with me." We went back to head guys office. "No registration" amongst other inaudible Marathi mumblings, I was told to sit down. "Your flight will be cancelled", the middle aged balding agent coldly declared. I let out an audible gasp...I got an FRRO registration brochure and was escorted back to the Continental desk. I was told my bags are being offloaded. "Wait here 10 minutes." I waited for 30 at least. I had no phone, no local phone numbers. My other colleague was flying out to Frankfurt later that evening, my wheels turned, maybe I could wait for him and use his phone to get in touch. NOPE. Once I got my bags I was escorted out of the airport back in front of Gate B where I had entered some hours before. Like a salmon upstream I fought the crush of people pushing their way into the airport, and make it to a phone bank. The phone stand was monitored by a kid probably 16 at most. "USD? Do you take USD?" (I only had a $5 bill because why would I need ruppees I'm leaving). He noded and I dialed my colleague who was still in the office. He said, "can I call you back in 15...can he? NO. "Ok I will call you back in 15." I hung up. Kid said, "thats 200 rupees". All I had was usd. Blank stare. His boss who was apparently hovering close by sensed a problem and came over. I explained my issue, and he said, "just make your other call in 15 minutes and give him the $5 and everything will be fine." Thanks to that man. We chi-chated for a second and once he heard my story he said, "that is a big problem, because of the holiday earliest you could leave is Monday FRRO is closed on Saturday". The kid said, "Don't forget me", and I sat down on the ground right next to the stand and tried to keep it together. I got out my Hindustani Times and started reading. What a sight I must have been. After 15 I gave my colleague a call. The cavalry was on the way to come pick me up. Phew. Stress levels return from freakmode down to heightened. So there I waiedt for another hour on the curb and finally my buddy showed up and exclaimed, "Matt". I hopped in and that is that story. Epilogue to that story is we got back to the hotel where I had been rebooked. We joked with the hotel reception clerk, "Do we get a Welcome Back basket?", blank stare. I got to my new room and hit the minibar right away. This room is in much worse shape. The shade in between the bathroom falls down etc. But to top it all off I ordered a chicken dish at the 5 star restaurant and after I ate about 3 pieces I cut into one...Raw chicken. As the dude from Quantum Leap said, "Oh brother."

Guy in Mumbai

Southern view across Lake Powai from the 25th floor of Renaissance. The Renaissance is about a 15 minute ride away from the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport. We had an interesting ride in. I rode shotgun on the left side of the car something I had never done. Red light,no problem you just go through slowly flash your lights, honk your horn, and wait your turn to slip through. Numerous dogs were encountered along the way. They knew enough to avoid the car. We did see a donkey just hanging out all by itself in the middle of the road. Looked like Juan Valdez had gone in to grab a cup of joe. Mind you its 3am in the morning at this point. We did pass through security at the hotel entrance, which im all for. I assume the guy had a bomb sniffing dog, who when he opens your door says "siccum" ! Ha im sure thats just his prompt to smell but i was not wanting to be "sic'd". I changed $60 USD in Frankfurt for some rupees. I should have waited until Mumbai b/c they had to first change then into Euros so I only got 32 INR /USD. (instead of about 47) When she changed she only had 500 rupee notes. Ha! I might as well had a thousand dollar bill as far as tips are concerned. The typical tip for someone carrying your bags is something like 12-18 Rupees. Well my guy got a 100 note bc thats the smallest amount i could get from the hotel. All in all no big deal since that is rougly $2.12. I tried to stay awake until breakfast buffet at 630 but no dice. I awoke at 9 to housekeeping. They have a bell they ring. I had no idea where i was. I finally got some breakfast around 945 after chatting with my colleague. Now as I post this it is 942pm here and I am trying to stay up until 630am for breakfast then go to bed after that. Then wake up around 3pm to make it into the office around 500pm. (730amEST). I need to boil up some coffee so I'm off.

From Whence it came

JP, the dart board and air purifier have returned to their original home in the attic of 2325 DRW.


My journey has officially started now that I am completely out of my old Dilworth place.


With luck my flight from Dulles will leave tomorrow evening, bound for Frankfurt on to Mumbai!